Michelin provides guidance to ensure truck safety and reduced downtime.
The right wheel torque keeps the mechanical components and the tire contact patch in good form, keeping you safe.
It all begins with wheel condition. Wheel condition must be checked regularly. A cracked wheel or rim must be replaced. Preferably, wheels or rims should not be repaired by welding. If welding is required, the tire must be removed from the rim. If not, the risk of explosion is very high. The tire can be reassembled when all parts return to room temperature. Before welding the vehicle chassis, the tire and wheel units must be removed. When dismantling multiple wheels, we recommended deflating all vehicle tires.
Before tightening, it is necessary to clean the contact surface of the hub and wheel, the studs and nuts. It is also necessary to check the condition of the mounting holes (deformations, cracks, etc.), the condition of the studs (deformations, condition of the threads, etc.), the condition of the nuts (deformations, condition of the threads, etc.), if necessary, remove rust and paint residues with a wire brush, and possible metal deburring. One should lubricate with a drop of oil on the nut threads and studs, and of flat or spigot nuts. Never lubricate the nut contact surfaces, or spherical or M-type washers.
Final tightening torque must be done within the tightening torques recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Depending on the number of nuts, remember the cross-tightening order. Tightening to the correct torque enables easy disassembly in the event of a puncture. Also, it will prevent axle damage and ensures your safety. Overtightening can be as damaging as under-tightening, which can lead to damage and/or broken axles, wheel loss due to damage of nut threads and drum warping.
After 30 minutes or a distance of 30 to 60 miles (48 to 96 km), the wheel nuts must be checked again using a properly calibrated torque wrench. When checking the torque, do not tighten and retighten. Source